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Ingredient 101

EGF and FGF peptides, explained for your front desk

What sh-Oligopeptide-1 and sh-Polypeptide-1 are, what 10 ppm on a label means, and how to answer sensitive-skin questions in cosmetic terms.

Sep 30, 2026 · 2 min read

Clients who read labels will ask about EGF. Some have heard the term and are curious. Some are nervous about it. Your front desk needs a short, accurate answer that stays in cosmetic language. This Q&A gives your team the words.

What are EGF and FGF?

They are shorthand names for two peptides used as cosmetic ingredients. On an ingredient list they appear by their INCI names:

  • sh-Oligopeptide-1 is the ingredient people call EGF.
  • sh-Polypeptide-1 is the ingredient people call FGF.

The "sh" prefix is part of the standard INCI naming for these lab-made peptides. Peptides are short chains of amino acids. In the Dear, Klairs Blue Line they sit alongside guaiazulene as part of the line's focus on irritation relief and barrier care.

What does "10 ppm" mean?

ppm means parts per million. 10 ppm is ten parts in a million, or 0.001% of the formula. For reference, the EGF Blue Youth Activating Drop lists 10 ppm EGF, 10 ppm FGF and 1,000 ppm guaiazulene, which works out to 0.1%.

Quote the number as it appears on the label and leave comparisons out. A ppm figure only describes how much of an ingredient is in the formula.

Which products carry them?

  • EGF Blue Youth Activating Drop (50 mL $39.99 MSRP; 10 mL trial size $12.99 MSRP): 10 ppm EGF and 10 ppm FGF with guaiazulene and adenosine, pH 5.5. It is the first step after cleansing, before toner.
  • Blue EGF Intensive Pro Cream ($25.00 MSRP): a lightweight intensive moisturizer with 10 ppm EGF, 3% panthenol and 300 ppm guaiazulene, designed to support the moisture barrier without a heavy or greasy finish. Its INCI lists sh-Oligopeptide-1 and no sh-Polypeptide-1, so describe it as an EGF cream.

"Is this safe for sensitive skin?"

This is the question to get right. Staff should avoid a flat yes or any guarantee. Give facts the client can weigh:

  1. The Drop is tested for primary irritation on sensitive skin and for non-comedogenicity.
  2. Both products have no fragrance or essential oils listed, so you can say "no added fragrance."
  3. Suggest a patch test on the inner arm or along the jawline for a few days before full use.
  4. If a client mentions a diagnosed skin condition or ongoing discomfort, suggest they check with their physician or dermatologist before adding new products.

Words to keep off the desk

Peptide ingredients attract medical-sounding language online. Keep yours cosmetic. Say "supports the look of firmness," "helps skin feel comfortable" and "supports the moisture barrier." Avoid describing these ingredients as acting on cells or changing how skin behaves over time. If a client pushes for more, point them to the product description and ingredient list.

A quick huddle drill

  • Have each staff member find sh-Oligopeptide-1 on both labels.
  • Ask them to explain "10 ppm" in one sentence.
  • Role-play the sensitive-skin question using the four points above.
At the counter: "EGF and FGF are peptides used as cosmetic ingredients. On the label they're sh-Oligopeptide-1 and sh-Polypeptide-1, at 10 ppm each in the Drop."

For the full ingredient story, open the EGF Blue Drop webbook. Case packs for both products are in the catalog.

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